Nos, Sifnos: unbeatable views in the Greek Islands

Why book?

For a truly authentic yet indulgent experience of island life, plus incredible local cooking paired with unbeatable views.

Hotel address: NOS Hotel & Villas, Faros 840 03, Greece

NOS Hotel & Villas, Sifnos

Set the scene

Nos, which takes its name from the astonishingly green and wild Cycladic island of Sifnos where it is located, can only be reached by boat – from Athens to Piraeus in three hours by high-speed catamaran or five hours by ferry. It’s set just a few steps from the Aegean and diminutive, scenic Fassolou beach, in a curved bay with a view of the Monastery of Chrisopigi. This famous landmark also dominates the right side of the epic 180-degree views across the Aegean sea from the hotel’s infinity pool. Uber-cool Athens-based architects K-Studios, responsible for some of the most exciting properties in the Greek islands, have worked their magic here in a truly original way, fusing traditional materials and styles with modern twists to create a contemporary feel.

The backstory

Legend has it that the small rocky islet was miraculously split by an act of the gods so a group of nuns could be saved from a pirate attack. Centuries later, in 2017, one of the future owners of Nos took a dip off the rock on which Panagia Chrissopigi sits and instantly fell in love with the island. A year later, when an abandoned hotel at the nearby beach of Faros came on the market, the decision to invest was easy. Some bells and whistles are still being added – in summer 2022, the hotel acquired its own boat, a super-sexy Ribco Seafarer 36X 2022, which is already causing a stir. As is news about the development of new villas, set to launch in 2024.

NOS Hotel & Villas, Sifnos

The rooms

The four stone buildings are arranged to create an intimate vision of a typical Sifnos village, connected by narrow cobbled paths and courtyards that allow guests to wander, get lost, and explore. Finally, they arrive at the terrace by the restaurant and swimming pool, surrounded by wildflowers which sway in the breeze beneath four majestic mulberry trees. Sifnos is famous for its pottery and examples of this can be found scattered throughout, infusing the place with local artisanal traditions. 18 spacious living quarters are bright, opening to terraces, balconies and secluded courtyards. 11 have private or plunge pools, hemmed in by tall stone walls offering complete seclusion – great for cooling down during the hottest hours of the day.

Food and drink

Food is a big deal here. The menu, created by executive chef Athinagoras Kostakos, is deliciously Greek and executed masterfully by chef Gerasimos Mitrakis. Dishes focus on local ingredients and cooking techniques, married with a firm commitment to zero waste. Lunch might include crab salad with crunchy raw courgette and carrot doused with a zesty dill dressing, as well as classic dishes such as taramasalata. 

A standout was the smoky aubergine with oxymeli, a gooey, black, sweet-and-sour traditional dish made from thyme honey, vinegar and figs, which was first mentioned by Hippocrates in Ancient Greece. The star of the sharing dishes is the smoked lamb, slow-cooked on wood vines. It is so tender that some guests pre-order it in advance to secure a portion.

After supper, bartender Panagiots Karkalis serves up further mood-lifting moments in cocktails such as the Cu-Cai: vodka infused with pears and mixed with cucumber water and gingerbread syrup, then topped with frothy lime foam. The next morning, breakfast is an all-around delight of Greek delicacies but the pistachio butter – delicious on top of natural sheep yoghurt – is something I hadn’t tried before and now find myself fantasising about.

NOS Hotel & Villas, Sifnos

The area

Surprisingly green, lush and fertile among its more barren neighbours of Serifos, Milos and Paros, Sifnos is a quieter island. It’s popular for its excellent 55 miles of marked hiking trails across rugged hills, fertile valleys and rocky promontories. The unspoilt beaches also lure in travellers, ranging from isolated coves and sandy or pebble beaches to rockpools. Tree-lined Glyfo beach, one of three in Faros village close to the hotel, stands out for its soft sаnd with a few umbrellas, shаllоw bluе wаtеrs, a laidback taverna and a seriously chilled-out atmosphere. Starting here, and running parallel to the sea, is also a short yet stunning hiking trail which leads to thе сhurch of Agiоs Chаralampοs. Faros Harbour, a few minutes walk from the hotel, is a charming cluster of traditional whitewashed houses with sky-blue shuttered windows jostling for a view of the wooden boats lining the quay. Smart holiday lets are peppered among local homes where islanders sit out on their verandas. The fishing lockers beneath the terraces are used for storing tackle and the pace of life is slow. A short boat trip away from Sifnos, Polyaigos is a small uninhabited island blessed with pristine beaches and large sea caves.

 The service 

It’s not often that the location and design of a property excite equally as much as the staff, but this is the case here. The team has been carefully handpicked and it shows. They are genuinely welcoming and flood the place with an abundance of positivity, making it impossible to hold on to city-life stress levels. The team on reception, led by guest relations manager Emiliana Karipi, are incredibly knowledgeable about the island and can organise special days out, as well as arrange transport to and from the island, so guests can immediately lean into precious holiday relaxation mode.

NOS Hotel & Villas, Sifnos

Eco effort 

The materials used for the property are locally sourced and great care has been taken to select plants and Stipa grasses from indigenous varieties.

Accessibility for those with mobility impairments

There is a suite designed and equipped for less able guests. All the paths of the hotel allow accessibility at every level of the property.

Anything left to mention?

If you fancy something a bit special, reservations manager Konstantina Sarela will arrange a private RIB cruise to explore the island’s crystal waters. When not running a software business out of Athens or hosting on his small but wildly successful local radio station RadioActive FM, local Riris Papatsarouchas runs boat company A La Mer and will show you the best spots for snorkelling, followed by a picnic in a secluded bay. We even got to witness the arresting sight of a stork in flight, its slow, powerful wing beats punctuated by periods of gliding low across the turquoise waters.